Fifty hours and five planes after leaving Montana I arrived, disheveled and exhausted, at the somewhat spartan airport in Gove, the Northern Territories, at the top of Australia. A transport vehicle had been hired to take me to the Gan Gan buffalo camp, in the heart of East Arnhem Land, 600,000 acres of Aboriginal lands that stretched hundreds of miles from the east coast towards Darwin. We drove 150 miles down a remote dirt track to get to the tent camp, arriving at midnight, and after swatting a few dozen mosquitoes I fell gratefully into my cot.
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